ITALY.

Italian drivers are worse than Croatian. In no other country would it be acceptable to drive down the middle of a single lane road, no matter how wide. So negotiating the drivers, the toll roads, the tourists and the long distances all together Italy has been a little hectic.

With just over a week to cover Italy (didn't fancy the mass exodus of Italian tourists on the 1st August) I think we've done our best. Verona, Garda, Bologna, Florence, Rome and Pisa: major sights, done.

So here's a summary of what stuck out for me over our time in the country:

Michaelangelo's Piazza: starkers Mike staring over the pinky-orange hue of Florence, the churches of the city peaking out like juggling balls as puffy clouds drift through the dark evergreen Tuscan hills.


Neptune in Bologna: another phallus carved in stone encircled by his female counterparts aptly squirting water from their breasts (apparently a representation of the four great rivers but I think these people just liked making naked statues).

The Trevi Fountain, Rome: like the better half of a conjoined twin spilling out of the grand grey stone house behind into an even more elaborate scene of Roman gods, sea creatures and cascading green water.

Arco di Constantino:  One of several Roman memorial arches built around the Roman city centre to celebrate one of their vast number of victories in an age of grandeur. Next to THE Colusseum, this was perhaps overshadowed for many but for me, from the shelter of a tiny umbrella, it held some of the sensationalism of the Roman Age. Each square meter was intricately carved with images of extravagance - feasting, battles and courtly rituals.

Basilica de San Pedro: on the second attempt, after wrapping my bare limbs in a floor length dress and woolly cardigan (not so nice in 32 degree heat), we managed to get inside the great church at the heart of the Vatican. For the Pope's own personal temple it was decidedly modest, there was restraint exercised in gold relics and fanciful offerings - at least where we could see. Huge ceilings curling up to meet the streams of light pouring through slits in the gilt cupola. Cool marble in rich reds and regal purple echoed the footsteps and murmurs of a million tourists passing through the great vestibule.

The Leaning Tower of Pisa: fun. It was also much more wonky than we expected! Everyone was posing in comical 'holding-up-the-tower' positions, making me feel slightly stupid when we did too. All the same Pisa was a lovely city and it was nice have only one small sight to see for once!

So a quick summary of a big destination, but it has definitely been an unforgettable experience.