Enjoy Istria.

Most coastal hot spots here seem to be shared between Germans and Croatians. The Croatians will park anywhere and everywhere: we have driven from Rijeka to Pula in the last few days, the ‘beaches’ (sheer cliff faces ending in a shallower area of water, rocky underfoot) are usually reached by a steep, shingled descent and are sign-posted by the blocks of cars shunted up onto the embankment, in between trees, on hairpin bends.

Perhaps it was the few national holiday days that caused the mass exodus to the coastline, but now in a pretty fishing town 10 minutes from Pula, the crazy Croats are supplanted by the law abiding Germans. None of the cars at the expensive harbour parking are native, who (as do we) prefer to bumper each other into a small area behind the supermarket. The restaurants too are segregated: early diners at posh table-clothed venues are the tourist’s choice while a couple of local bars clinging to corners near to the centre are the Croatian’s favourite haunts.

In fact, as two Brits, young and not all that inconspicuous in our bright red van, it seems we are total aliens in this hidden continental paradise. 24.6.11

Free Camp.

Verb: to free camp.
Meaning: to camp anywhere without using any money

A list of places where we have free camped so far:
a sports centre car-park in a small town by Cologne
a pretty rose-lined car-park on the banks of the Rhine
a pub car park in a forest near Dresden
a lay-by outside a small Czech town (Loket)
city parking bays in Olomouc
next to some flats in Bratislava
outside the campsite (on the road) in Budapest
a residential area on Lake Balaton
a beach car park by the lake
a lay-by by a swimming spot
a lorry car park by a restaurant
by a graveyard in Zagreb
a lay-by neat to a clear, empty, lake
a beach
behind some trees, off the main road, by the sea
above a deserted cove with amazing water and a pebble beach


I suppose I should say that we have been quite lucky free camping so far - no break-ins, no disgruntled locals, no police...
the only real scare we had was in the lay-by by the lake in Hungary; someone tried the door, hurling me from deep sleep into a million new nightmares. From then on we have tried to stick to lit spots, or places not far from at least a few people.

Croatia has been a succession of free camping. Firstly with Zach - three in a bed! By the perfect spot on the edge of Split, then all along the coast, which is actually quite easy as there are plenty of laybys, the sea is near (showers not the most important thing with a source of cool water!) and even in car parks they don’t seem too bothered (you should see all the Croatian cars lined up along roads - pulled into trees, on cliff faces, on the pavement...)

So here are the things we have struggled with when trying to find a perfect free camp spot:
morning shade
SOME shade
good bush / toilet spot (no immediate road!)
water for cooling off / cleaning
noise / light pollution
free parking
not a recognised dogging spot...

Dalmatian Coast.

Little islands lying
in wait
for something...
movement? I couldn't
tear myself away
from this hilltop viewing platform
over the mysteries
of our world. They
just lie there
waiting
in the hazy heat
of late afternoon -
perhaps
they will change
with the light
as sun sinks
into sea.

Dubrovnik.

We spent three nights on a campsite, using up our valuable savings - but we had no choice, there was only one in the whole area and parking in this mountainous city was unthinkable so... they were free to monopolise prices as they chose.

It wasn't too bad though, a quiet corner spot with trees to hang our washing and a beach too! It was a 40minute walk to the historic walled part of Dubrovnik and what a wall! Up to five metres thick on the outer side, much thinner within, and the whole place criss-crossed by a network of tiny side streets, still lived in with washing dangling at window sills and women selling lace in the passageways.

My favourite part of our stay is, without doubt, the sea-kayaking tour out into the bay. We met our captain Mario and other crew mates at 5.15pm and kitted up for the sea challenge. Ed and I were the youngest by quite a long way but everyone was very pleasant. Superb views of the walls from the sea, a bit of history and a stop to try... a sea urchin!! All black and spiky and then inside orangey-pink like a mussel. And even Ed tried it! Bit salty really though.

We stopped for half an hour rest at a 'secret' bay, had some sarns and were given snorkels. I learned, to much amusement, that I am utterly crap at snorkelling as somehow I can't stop breathing out of my nose... I did find that pinching it closed with one hand whilst underwater helped. Ed looked like a dolphin diving and floating around in the peaceful water.

So after this excursion (and a few cups of wine when we landed with the others) we trekked back 'home', slept well and packed up. Let’s see what else the Dalmatian Coast has to offer.

A Familiar Face

CROATIA. Zagreb - stormy weather, lots of rain, driving on again...

There are lots of deserted houses, half-built and missing windows. Young people come to sit in their shells away from critical townsfolk. In the country too, next to barns converted and chickens running wild, are more of these dark places.

PLITVICA National Park was where we found Zach. He sent an email from Zagreb at exactly the same time we were there, saying he would be in Plitvica the next day, also the same as us - such a coincidence! So he phoned Ed and we arranged to pick him up then spend the rest of the day exploring the National, World Heritage, Park (somehow it had passed our notice that we were on the doorstep of such an outstanding area of natural beauty).

The top half consisted of, I think, six lakes joined by crystal clear water pouring though varying sized waterfalls. After a feast of a lunch: a huge circular brown loaf, butter, salami, cucumber and tomato, we felt ready to take the boat to the next walk and the aptly named "Big Waterfall".

We didn't leave until gone six so it was a long evening drive in the direction of Split (change to our plans in favour of Zach's). Stopping in a lay-by just outside a small local town the boys cooked up another Lidl special dog-food stew and we squeezed the three of us into the back of the van. A fitful night's sleep opened up into a glorious day and the surprise of another beautifully clear lake which we made the most of in the absence of a shower. Further investigation of the town led us through a few stalls to a marina and the biggest yacht I've ever seen! We made the last two hours of the journey that day as the bright sun heated up the van.

Split is an amazing town and I'm sure we will return on the way back up the coast. We didn't stop in the town that first afternoon but found a nice big car park, a stony bit of shoreline with the most delicious turquoise sea and a good breeze to whistle through the van. The next two nights were spent along from the beach by some quieter 'mermaid'-like rocks, waking up early in the heat, cooling off in the sea, burning in the sun, feasting like kings on fresh fish and vegetables from the market in town and sitting up late as the moon came out at night.

Now we have separated and left Zach to find his own path as we head down South to Dubrovnik.

Bye Bye Balaton.

All the storms, in the afternoon, evening, over-head at night, across the lake in the distance, no rain, lots of rain, light rain, loud thunder, bright forks down...

All the swims in the murky water, squishy mud, grey sand, snakes swimming, fish dancing - shiny in the evening light, swimming after dinner, in the morning, in the 28°C humid heat...

The island poking out: Volcanic formation, it's pretty village with the chilli house, the Magyar church domed by round balloons, the inner lake, the vineyards climbing up the hills...

Wine with dinner, and the Czech drivers, beer on the beach only a pound in a big, tall, handled glass; sheltering in the van from a storm...

And being woken at night by cars, and lightning flashing, and someone pulling at the door...

Now we're off again, having spent the last money at a Tesco's in Hungary, to cross the border, expect to be stopped...

Bratislava, Vienna & Budapest.

Three cities, three days!

Well... four days. Slept on a side street during a big storm in Bratislava the night before discovering the city centre: quite a small old town with panoramic views from the castle; big tower blocks surrounding the city and the Danube River stretching out to Vienna, our next destination. After a lunch of Halusky (despite Martin's father's impression that we would hate it!!) it is a classic Slovakian dish of potato dumplings/gnocchi with sheep’s cheese and bacon sprinkled on the top... we drove on to Vienna, stopping for a swim in the river before going to the city!

Vienna is very picturesque. Unfortunately it was a grey day when we were there, but the tall, clean, skilfully carved out buildings are no less impressive. We didn’t spend a lot of time in the city, just enough to test out their ice-cream, then headed on over the next border to Hungary. It didn't help that ALL the shops were shut - even supermarkets - for some religious holiday...

Budapest was stunning. Another storm as we were arriving predicted a memorable stay, red lightening lit up the dark clouds perched above the Buda hills as we closed in on the city. A fantastic campsite in the hills was our start point, with a proper Hungarian breakfast of langos, bread, cheese and ham set us up for a long, hot day in the city centre. We took a bus tour! (First ever) And the evening was even better...

Slovakia with a Guide!

We arrived at Martin's house at quarter to six on a sunny Sunday evening. He was waiting by the brightly marked in yellow house on the edge of Puchov. And already Martin was full with places to take us and things to tell us. Without him all would have just been a passing picture through the windows of the van; another factory, a big lake, some hills cut away.

The first stop was up the mountains behind his house - 1200m at its highest - slightly chilly but no snow now. We tried the border speciality, a sweet kind of dumpling/doughnut stuffed with blueberries and covered in butter, sugar and yoghurt. This was only the start of our Slovakian culinary experience. We were still to try: soup (cabbage and sausage or homemade vegetable), traditional breads with cheese and meat for breakfast, schnitzel, local sausages, not to mention countless shots to wash it all down. It has to be noted that we were very well looked after.

For our following two days Martin drove us in search of the attractions that he claimed were few and far between. Monday was a thermal water park with not just 38°C heated water but countless slides and a fantastic sauna area below. Turned out to be quite tiring! The next big trip was to Bonjnice Castle. A tour discovered the circular citadel with views in all directions across the valley, a bed chamber, a knight's dressing room and the hidden natural caves underneath it all.

After a storm we parted, us both with a sinking heart but Martin with his own adventures ahead. We have some souvenirs though... plenty of Slovakian chocolates, some hefty alcohol and even a birthday cake and earrings from his kind parents!!

Czech Republic #2.

Land for sale:
pretty blooms in pink and
yellow and white
wild amongst the farmland.
Rocks from ploughing lie
scattered still
a vast horizon stretches out
with rolling hills and clustered trees;
some branches clawing
at the sky. Perhaps they hope
someday to belong
to the land where they come from.