Chiang Mai: The Food Was Good.

The five of us arrived at some point in the afternoon. I think we had different ideas on what was next, but what was immediately next was coffee and internet.

So we found a hostel, suited me. Had a pool too, so absolute bonus, even if the pool was a bit fly flecked. And soon we realised the famous Chiang Mai night markets were starting imminently, on the streets right outside.

Firstly it was full of crafts - jewellery, hanging things, sarongs, clothes, toys - and then food. The food was out of this world. I mean, yes, there were chicken heads. Yes the fish was barbecued in front of your eyes. Yes there were who knows how many different broths, stews and general deliciousness with varying ingredients most of which were indiscernible.

I ate a soup with pork, noodles, lots of spices, and a juice - one from one of the many juice stalls where you can just point at the fruits you like and they'll shove them all into the blender together to make fruity nutritious loveliness. 

Same same, but different

Next day I was due to fly north to Chiangmai. Was due to.

I hitched to the airport. The roads were in chaos with flooding, the airport was in chaos with people sprawling across every inch of covered check-in floor space. No go.

Several hours later I met four Essex kids in the queue by exchanging wifi codes. They took me under their wing and introduced me to the glorious intricacies of Essex banter. Great fun.

We kind of got through into a flight lounge but the plane still showed no signs of turning up. The airline brought everyone boxes of flight food in an attempt to placate us. One Mancurian wove his was around the sitters down high on whatever he still had left over from the full moon party.

FINALLY at about 8pm there was an announcement. No flight. Cancelled. Same flight tomorrow, same time, same place. (Same same, but different - now I understand the popular Thai saying). 

Andy took charge and sorted us all out with complimentary hotel rooms. 5* double ensuite yes please.

Next day, still raining. Same same but different. Oh and I'd had the most horrific food poisoning and so had not made nearly as much use of the luxury double as I should have.

Same same but different - hotel this night was an eastern influenced wooden delight interspersed with fountains and meandering waterways. This double room had a sliding glass window onto a massive bath, which certainly went some way to easing the pains of a doubly delayed flight.

Eventually we got to Chiangmai on Saturday.

Leaving Koh Tao

Oh misery!

Not only was it pouring as Tom, Brad, Sam & I hitched our open truck back to the port, it meant goodbye to many of the people I'd met during my week on the turtle island (it's name is something about a turtle..)

We were some of the first at the pier and as we munched a Thai breakfast roll some familiar faces from the festival kept popping up! Carolina was one I will remember as she floated off down the jetty with a mysterious smile. And the mop of yellow hair with his guitar.

We eventually arrived at Koh Samui at some point in the afternoon - to even more torrential rain. The boys thought it was best to sort out our stomachs first, so we found a suitable bar and some wifi for next on the accommodation hunt.

Unfortunately the rain didn't look like it was going to ease, so we went for it and found ourselves knee deep crossing the road, wading in search of a hostel (the wrong way) for somewhere nearing an hour. 

Finally when we did get there it turned out our room had been leaking. So crossed over again and gave up, which in this case meant paying an extra tenner for a two room suite.

New Year - New Friends

By far one of the best things I did in the whole of Thailand was psytrance. (And yes, I know this isn't exactly a typical Thai activity, but it happened as part of my travels all the same.)

The Aussies from Bangkok had told me about The Experience Festival on Koh Tao and on day two (I don't last long just sunbathing all day) I thought why not. So partnered up with Linus again and we decided to walk / hitchhike up the mountain (hill) to find out what it was all about.

As I was sipping beer at the entrance (obviously I bought glass bottles to a festival) guess who wanders past: Axel, Phil & Koda - perfect timing! So they show us the ropes (actually I think they sloped off for a snooze) and we get partying. For three days.



So many cool people there I felt out of depth. But made a few new mates too - plus came back with a whole list for the next trip (festivals to go to, people to meet, countries to visit).

Plus night swimming...

The festival was perched on an outcrop of mountain (hill) with the main stage bordered by two wooden balconies overlooking two valleys either side, stretching out to the forest, the bay and the sea. Scattered over each slope down from the main stage were everyone's tents and then down a tottering track a secret cove for night swimming under an upside-down crescent moon with one bright star picked out in the heavens.

Oh and hitchhiking home on the back of a scooter, more swimming and sleeping in a bunk as the rain came down in a tropical storm almost hammering so loudly it could drown out the noise of the air-con. Lots of experiences along with The Experience.

Beaches and beers

Koh Tao is the bees knees. Perfect sandy beaches, appropriately placed palm trees, huts lining the seashore selling mango smoothies, pad thai and banana pancakes. 

Good old Tom (ex housemate) met me after the sick boat ride. Swede Linus and I wobbled our way up the hill as Tom led us in search of some breakfast to settle our stomachs. He kindly put up with my lack of sleep and pale face and so after checking me into the 20 bed dorm where he and his two other travel companions (step-brother Sam and friend Brad) were staying we decided a day on the beach in the sun was in order. 

As I mentioned before, the most incredible banana pancake (+ nutella) and mango smoothie were consumed. 

Food on Koh Tao ranged from burgers (mostly avoided on my behalf - much too British - in fact managed to avoid most of the British on the island where possible too...) to fresh fish - my preference. Oh and what fresh fish it was. On my final night persuaded the boys to take me to one of the places where you could point at a fish and they'd cook it there in front of you and toss it on a plate with a mound of rice. It was lush. No more needs to be said. 

In between the sunbathing, swimming, beer quaffing and fish fondling I did frequent one of those flame throwing beach parties you hear about. The Thai's practising said flame throwing were nuts - both in that they were incredible, and actually nuts. One in particular was poy-tastic. The flaming limbo was a laugh, although we didn't have a go (much too sensible obviously, what was coming over me?!). Again unbelievably, two Thai guys limbo-ed under about 2 foot of space, one holding the other off the floor, and then another of the Thai men on the beach picked up an unsuspecting girl from the crowd and sidled his way under the spitting rope holding her too.

Calm before the storm

Because this picture is beautiful. It was damn early though. (Prequel to the 'sick boat').

Thailand's Treasures

Day two yielded many more Thai treasures. Quickly I got used to a few things:

• If you want to get across a road you just go for it
• Walking is by far the best means of transport, if you don't want to get fleeced that is
• A certain amount of fleecing is to be expected
• The king is final.
• The old king is even more final.
• Street food is the best (obviously)
• Thai's don't really like having their photo taken
• Unless it is a selfie
• In which case you're best of joining in and taking your own selfie

So I walked right through Chinatown and who knows where-else, past so many shops piled to the ceiling with pretty much everything - one shop seemed to specialise in tyres, the next would be mini temple things, and all of them had one of those mini temple things established outside surrounded by half-full cups of colourful juice, snacks and incense. 

This was the lovely lady who cooked my lunch. Sitting peeling peanuts in front of her neighbour's shop, which was, as afore mentioned, piled high with all sorts. 

Lunch, before the 15 ft gold buddha, was my favourite, noodle soup - chilli, pork three ways, beansprouts and herbs. All cooked in under 2 minutes, on the street corner.

The 15 ft solid gold buddha was... well rather gold. I like how Buddha is always smiling. And people are welcomed to go right up to him, kneel, pray, offer gifts, just generally be there, celebrate and be happy. It's not really like any other religion I've encountered. 

After some praying (these girls did some on my behalf) I did some more walking. And after the walking, checked out and did some waiting. 

Decided to get the local bus as thought it would be cheaper - in fact it was - it was free, and I made some new friends on the bus too - the lady bus conductor kept giving me a cheeky smile, and then finally when I did get a seat and got to move from the dusty floor in the space between the front window and the seats, the lady I sat next to wanted to show me all her favourite pictures of pretty English houses... very strange. 

The destination: Koh San Road. 

Thoughts: tourists. Lots of them.

Activities: catching another bus.

People met: 1 kiwi, 1 Canadian, 1 Swede.

Departure time: 9pm

Arrival time at next destination: 4am

Next leg: sick-boat x 2 hours

Things learnt: take some serious travel sickness pills, don't sit in the open air on the boat, even if it looks like the better option for not being ill - it's not, remember not to eat anything at least 8 hours before catching a boat (fortunately this time due to the most comfortable coach... and some good conversation, no food was consumed yet on the other hand, little sleep was had). 

Here's the man himself.